July 20, 2018

Wesley Crusher sweater

A little something different for today’s blog post – while my primary interests lie with the franchise’s actual Starfleet uniforms, I recently had the opportunity to examine an original, screen-used Wesley Crusher sweater from The Next Generation’s first season, courtesy of Angelo Cifaldi.

Wesley Crusher sweater


(You can also see my prototype 1989 Joker shirt photobombing on the right.)

Anyway, Wesley wore a few different sweaters that first season before being promoted to Acting Ensign and sporting his gray “rainbow” sweater.

This particular brown one was the one he wore for part of the pilot, “Encounter at Farpoint,” and then again in the episode “Justice.”

Wesley Crusher sweater
TNG, 1x1 "Encounter at Farpoint"
Wesley Crusher sweater
TNG, 1x8 "Justice"


As you probably know by now, William Ware Theiss seemed to love his knit fabrics, and this sweater appears to have literally been knit together, rather than made with a knit fabric.

Wesley Crusher sweater


There were a few aspects of the sweater’s structure and design that I found interesting. 

First, there was a small band of black elastic around the collar, hand-sewn to the underside via a catch-stitch.

Wesley Crusher sweater


The uppermost few inches of the sweater were also lined, although curiously with a cream-colored lining rather than brown.

Wesley Crusher sweater


As you may have noticed in the screencaps, on the upper, outer sides of the sweater on each side was a pleat in the fabric.

Wesley Crusher sweater
Wesley Crusher sweater


At the bottom of the sweater was a little extension, which appears to have been tucked into the trousers.

On the underside was a wide band of elastic, also catch-stitched (similarly to the neckline).

Wesley Crusher sweater


Here’s a shot of the sweater, inside-out.

Wesley Crusher sweater


The shoulder pads were quite large – which would have been surprising if I hadn’t examined that TNG skant recently, as well as a season 1 admiral jacket (which I’ll be posting about soon). 

They appear to have been custom-made, the same way the pads were on the actual Starfleet uniforms back then.

Well, almost the same way; instead of a dart in the pad, the fabric was pleated, and rather than black, it was made of the same cream-colored lining fabric as the upper sweater lining.

Wesley Crusher sweater
Wesley Crusher sweater


The upper/outer pleat in the sweater was actually formed with hand-sewing on the underside! The fabric was simply folded over and catch-stitched into place.

Wesley Crusher sweater


Curiously, the upper armscye area was interfaced with a white fusible interfacing – something I’ve never seen done in this manner before!

Wesley Crusher sweater


A fusible applied to a knit garment? 

Also, I wonder why the original costumers didn’t use black, instead of white, since you can actually see through the little holes in the sweater. (Scroll back up to the photos of the pleat, and you can see the white fusible peeking out from underneath.)


One final surprise was a little prick I got while examining the armscye; there was sewing pin holding the shoulder pad to the sweater!

Wesley Crusher sweater


A relic from the original costuming department, perhaps?

Anyway, I thought it was an interesting piece so I just thought I’d share some of my observations. Thanks again to Angelo Cifaldi for letting me examine it and post my research here!

Coming soon … a detailed look at the TNG season 1 admiral uniform!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket

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June 1, 2018

TNG skants for sale!

Over the past few months, I've made several replica TNG skants for demonstration purposes (for my TNG skant sewing patterns and corresponding sewing tutorial). 

TNG skants for sale

However, Kate and I have no interest in keeping them and would rather they go to happy new owners who will enjoy them instead. 

We have three women's and one men's up for grabs in the "Sale/Clearance" section of our Etsy shop! (The other men's skant is already gone.)

The women's skants were patterned directly off of an original, screen-used TNG skant.

The first women's skant was made to fit a woman approximately 5'8" tall, with a 33" bust and 25" waist.

It features authentic vents, interior construction, and front double-zipper closures.

Woman's TNG skant
The second women's skant is the same size, but it's a conceptual season 3-7 variant, with the appropriate yoke and collar styles.

It zips up the back like the later TNG-era jumpsuits did.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/604427152/womens-tng-skant-star-trek-the-next

Women's TNG skant


The third women's skant is the season 1 style, and it's a direct 1:1 replica of the original, screen-used women's TNG skant I examined.

It's made to fit a woman with a 35-36" bust and 28-29" waist.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/618260967/womens-tng-skant-star-trek-the-next


Original, screen-used skant pictured on left, replica pictured on right


And finally, the men's skant is also the season 1 style, approximately a men's size 44.

It was intended to fit a man approximately 5'11" to 6'2" tall, with a 43-44" chest, 37-39" waist, and 42" hips.

It, too, features authentic vents, interior construction, and front double-zipper closures.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/547267092/mens-tng-skant-star-trek-the-next
Men's TNG skant

These TNG skants are great for cosplaying, but they also make impressive display pieces, too!

This is a one-time-only kind of thing, and we're only selling the four of them, so grab one while you can!

Again, the reason we're selling them is simple: we're always making new costumes and have many more patterns in the queue, but we simply don't have enough storage space or interest in cosplaying all of them. We'd rather these costumes go to owners who can appreciate and enjoy them!

This is a great chance to grab a high-quality uniform replica at a huge discount!


May 25, 2018

Men's TNG skant pattern - now shipping!

 My new (Bad Wolf Costumes) men's TNG skant pattern is now shipping!

Thank you, everyone who pre-ordered!

Men's TNG skant sewing pattern




So, what's next? 

Check back regularly and subscribe to my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for updates!


May 11, 2018

Men's TNG skant pattern, Pre-order discount!

My (Bad Wolf Costumes) men's TNG skant pattern is now available for pre-order, at a 10% discount!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/613586955/star-trek-sewing-pattern-tng-skant-the
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Based on the screen-used women's skant I examined, as well as photos of the screen-used men's skant I shared recently, it features authentic vents, interior construction, and double-zipper closures.
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Also, like I did with the women's version (and just for the hell of it), I've also included a conceptual seasons 3-7 version of the skant, with the appropriate yoke and collar styles.
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Both versions are included in men's sizes 34-52. 

The pattern is printed on three large sheets and also includes a printed copy of text-only instructions. 

Here are some examples of the uniforms you'll be able to make with this sewing pattern:

Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern
Men's TNG skant sewing pattern


Pre-order your copy today at a 10% discount! Shipping will begin on Friday, May 25, 2018, at which point it will be listed at regular price.


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April 27, 2018

TNG skant tutorial PDF added!

My TNG skant tutorial is now available as a free PDF download! 

I've added a download link to the TNG skant "tutorial contents" page, but you can also download the PDF via the direct link below:

Note that because of the file size, you might not be able to view the PDF online; it may only work as a download. 

Also, I'm putting the finishing touches on my (Bad Wolf Costumes) men's TNG skant pattern, which will be available soon! 

Remember to join my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (if you haven't already - upper right corner) for updates and a 10% discount off all Bad Wolf Costumes sewing patterns and pattern bundles!


April 20, 2018

TNG skant tutorial added!

My TNG skant sewing tutorial is now available for online viewing! 

Check it out here, or simply click on the "TNG" tab above and select the TNG skant! 
TNG skant tutorial
This FREE tutorial includes: 
  • A detailed list of everything you need to make a TNG skant

  • Potential fabric sources (and comparisons to the original, screen-used fabric)

  • Step-by-step instructions with HD photos and diagrams for all three (!) versions of the TNG skant

  • Fitting tips


Although primarily intended for use with the Bad Wolf Costumes women's TNG skant pattern (and upcoming men's pattern), it will also work with the free women’s TNG skant pattern I posted here on the STCG recently.

Sign up for my "Costume Guide" e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) and be the first to hear about new costume analyses, sewing patterns, tutorials, videos, etc., plus save 10% on all Bad Wolf Costumes sewing patterns and pattern bundles!


April 13, 2018

TNG skants - Men's vs. Women's

Since posting my TNG skant analysis and my examination of a screen-used women’s TNG skant, a fellow known as “Stasiuwong” was kind enough to share some photos of his screen-used men’s TNG skant, so I thought it would be interesting to take a quick look at how it correlates to the women’s version, in terms of construction. 

For the sake of brevity, I’ll rehashing all the aspects that appear to be the same as the women’s skant I examined, and instead simply mention all the details I noticed that are different.

We’ll start with the outer dimensions, then move on to the interior construction, generally making our way from top to bottom. 


I was surprised to see that this men’s skant was only a mere inch longer than the women’s version!
Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant

I find this curious, since in the show, the women’s version appeared to be quite short – approximately knuckle-length – whereas the men’s version extended down to the mid-thigh or so.

TNG, 1x1 "Encounter at Farpoint"
TNG, 1x9 "The Battle"
TNG, 1x1
"Encounter at Farpoint"
TNG, 1x6
"Where No One Has Gone Before"

One might assume that only shorter men were cast with this particular uniform in mind, but while there were a couple shorter men see in the skants throughout season 1, there were also a couple taller fellows!
TNG, 1x1 "Encounter at Farpoint"

Also, whereas the women’s version had 2” sleeves (measured from the lower, outer corner of the yoke to the sleeve hem, and from the lower armscye/”underarm” seam to the sleeve hem), the men’s sleeves were a bit longer – approximately 4”.

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant


Note that the production tag on the yoke is labeled with “39,” which is presumably to indicate the wearer’s size. 

However, also note the tag underneath the arm labeled “40.”

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant

After having made several of these, I’ve determined that the ideal wearing ease for a TNG skant seems to be about 1”, so my best guess is that the upper tag indicates a “size 39” and the “40” indicates the garment’s finished chest measurement (which would include 1” of wearing ease). 


Another minor difference is that both the front and back vents on the men’s skant were a bit shorter than those on its female counterpart.

Men's TNG skant
Front vent
("Stasiuwong" photo of original,
screen-used men's TNG skant)
Men's TNG skant
Back vent
("Stasiuwong" photo of original,
screen-used men's TNG skant)


In addition to the dimensional differences, there were also some minor differences in the skant’s interior construction. 

Unlike on the women’s skant I examined, the lower side of the upper/horizontal zipper did not appear to be stitched down onto the lower seam allowance, where it extended past the center front. Both sides were simply left hanging free.

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant


Also, on the women’s version, the horizontal zipper only extended past the armscye seam by about 3 ¼”, but on this particular men’s skant, it appeared to be longer – much longer!

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant


Interestingly, on this skant, both the front and back “waist anchors” appeared to be hand-tacked to the side front and side back seam allowances, in addition to their outer edges being secured to the side seam allowances.

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used men's TNG skant


The leg straps appear to have been a bit taller on the men’s version – 4 ½”, as opposed to 4" on the women’s version. 

Observe also that, rather than securing via two black snaps, the leg straps on this particular skant did so via black hook-and-loop tape (“Velcro”), which was simply topstitched into place!

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used TNG skant


And finally, whereas the shoulder pads were actually hand-sewn to the shoulder seam allowances on the women’s TNG skant I examined, on this skant, the shoulder pads appear to have been removable and attached via snaps – more like we saw on most of the modern-era Star Trek costumes.

Men's TNG skant
"Stasiuwong" photo of original, screen-used TNG skant


There are a few more subtle differences between the two skants (men’s and women’s), but I won’t get into them. Those are all the “major” ones. 

Special thanks goes to “Stasiuwong” for all the helpful photos of his skant, and allowing me to share them here on the blog! 

Here’s the full gallery, for your viewing pleasure:

Men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant
Men's TNG skant


I’m putting the finishing touches on a free sewing tutorial for the TNG skants and hope to have it up next week! 

My (Bad Wolf Costumes) men’s TNG skant pattern should be ready soon, too. 

Subscribe to my “Costume Guide” e-mail newsletter (upper right corner) for updates!