August 17, 2018

Screen-used TNG season 1 admiral jacket documentation

As I mentioned in my TNG season 1 admiral costume analysis, thanks to Angelo Cifaldi, I recently had the opportunity to examine an original, screen-used Admiral Jameson uniform jacket.

TNG season 1 admiral uniform


And now, as a supplement to the costume analysis, I’d like to give you a sort of “virtual tour” of it, as well – just like I did with the screen-used TNG skant I examined earlier this year!

You’ve already seen some of these photos in the actual TNG season 1 admiral costume analysis, but whereas that was a sort of “summary examination” of the uniforms seen during The Next Generation’s first season, this is a far more detailed look at this particular uniform, specifically. 

Naturally, this is a fairly lengthy blog post with lots of photos, so I hope you enjoy this detailed look at a screen-used Admiral Jameson uniform!
TNG season 1 admiral uniform


Fabric

Like the other TNG-era uniforms William Ware Theiss designed, the season 1 admiral jacket was made of jumbo spandex, with the dull side as the “right” side, and the shiny side as the “wrong” side.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric


I also noticed that the jumbo spandex used on this particular jacket seems to have been made with 4-way stretch, rather than 2-way!

My friend Michael Cowart has swatches of fabric from screen-used Captain Picard and Commander Riker uniforms; the Picard swatch is jumbo spandex (presumably from one of TNG jumpsuits the first couple seasons), and the Riker swatch is wool (presumably from one of his TNG jackets from season three onward). 

Michael was kind enough to allow me to do a color comparison between those swatches and Angelo’s screen-used Admiral Jameson jacket.

Both of the swatches were pretty close to the Admiral Jameson jacket, in terms of color. 

Sunlight and flash both had something of an “evening effect” over the three colors, at least with my camera, but here’s a three-way color comparison in various lighting situations:

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Outside, sunlight
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Outside, shade
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Indoors, with flash
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Indoors, no flash


The Captain Picard swatch was noticeably darker, and a bit bluer (resulting in a slightly more purple color).

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Outside, sunlight
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Outside, shade
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Indoors, with flash
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
Indoors, no flash

And here are some comparison photos with Michael’s swatch of Riker wool:

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric


I did my best to color-match some thread to the fabric.

Coats & Clark #3090 “Red Plum” was the closest I found, although it’s not quite dark enough.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Outside, sunlight
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Indoors, with flash
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Indoors, no flash


I don’t own a Pantone book (yet!), but I also did my best to color-match the fabric with some paint chips from my local home improvement store.

The closest I found was Valspar #1010-7, “Berry Brown.” 

It’s difficult to properly compare, not only because it’s paper to fabric, but because of the glossy sheen on the paper; sometimes it looked really, really close!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Outside, sunlight
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Outside, shade


Lighting was certainly a factor; observe below how under flash, the paint chip looked like an excellent match, but when photographed in normal interior lighting (without flash), it looked terrible.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Indoors, with flash
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Indoors, no flash
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Indoors, with flash
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - fabric color
Indoors, no flash


Being largely ignorant about photography and lighting, my theory is that my slightly golden/yellow-ish interior lighting affected the paint chip more than the fabric, making it appear more orange – at least, as far as my camera was concerned!

Nevertheless, something in the neighborhood of Coats & Clark #3090 “Red Plum” thread and Valspar’s #1010-7 “Berry Brown” is about the color of the original fabric!


Exterior Dimensions and Construction

After documenting the color as best I could, I grabbed my measuring tape and began the process of documenting the jacket’s dimensions and construction, generally working from the top down; front, then back; outside, then inside.

The neckline was only about 5 ¼” at its widest, measured from the edges of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - neckline


The gold trim extended all the way around the neckline and down the front edge of the diagonal panel … thing.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


The neckline/front trim was approximately ¼” wide.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


The trim is actually quite similar to standard retail trims still available today.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


In fact, the neckline/front trim was actually two separate trims, with the “curly” one hand-sewn down onto a gold braid underneath.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


The gold trim underneath appears to have been the same trim used in the shoulder/outer sleeve seams, lower yoke seams, and lower sleeve accents.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


It was tough to get a read on the width of the neckline trim; sometimes it appeared to be 3/16" (like the TNG skant I examined), but it also sometimes looked closer to a full ¼” side.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


The trim extended across the bottom of the back yoke, as well.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


The original trim appears to have been 2” wide, and was simply folded in half and sewn into the seams with however much protruding outward was desired.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


In fact, considering the underside of the trim slight fraying at the edges, and subtle diagonal lines across it, I wouldn’t be surprised if this trim was originally some bizarre metallic gold fabric that was cut into 2” diagonal strips.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold trim


Of course, a thorough examination of season 1 admiral jacket would be incomplete without a look at the infamous brooch worn on the upper right shoulder area!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold brooch


Here are some photos of the brooch with my measuring tape, for sizing reference.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold brooch
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold brooch
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold brooch
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold brooch
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - gold brooch


The front yoke was ¾” at the center front, measured from the bottom of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


The front yoke measured 3 ⅜” deep at the shoulder seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


The front yoke, back yoke, front sleeve, and back sleeve all formed a nice intersection of seams at the top of the sleeve.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


The shoulder seams were approximately 6 ¾” long, measured from the edges of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder seam


The lower front yoke (and front diagonal panel, extrapolating for where the yoke would be) measured about 18”, from armscye to armscye.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


Just the yoke portion was 11 ⅜” wide, measured from the edge of the front zipper.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


The back yoke was rather shallow, compared to the TNG jumpsuits and TNG skants; it was only 2” deep at the center back, measured from the edges of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


The back yoke was about 2 ½” deep, measured from the shoulder seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


Like the front yoke, the back yoke also measured approximately 18” across the bottom, from armscye to armscye.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - yoke


The jacket was about 16” long at the center front, measured from the lower edge of the trim to the wedge-shaped hem line. 

Were it flat across the bottom, it would probably have measured about 19 ½”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - length


The jacket was about 21 ½” long at the center back, measured from the lower edge of the trim to the hem line.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - length


Both the front and back of the jacket measured about 20” across the chest, from side seam to side seam, for a total measurement of about 40” around the chest.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - chest
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - chest


The front edge of the diagonal front panel was about 19” long, measured from the shoulder seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - front insert


The jacket had two side panels underneath the arm on each side, analogous to those on the TNG jumpsuits. (I call these the “side front” and “side back,” respectively.) 

The top of the right side front seam was about 4” beneath the shoulder seam at the armscye, but the top of the left side front seam was about 3 ¾” beneath the shoulder seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - upper front armscye
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - upper front armscye


The lower front armscye (from the side seam to the top of side front seam) was about 6 ½” on both sides, though.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower front armscye


On the back, the top of the right side back seam was about 6” below the shoulder seam at the armscye, but the top of the left side back seam was again slightly higher – about 5 ¾” below the shoulder seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - upper back armscye
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - upper back armscye


The lower back armscye (from the side seam to the top of the side back seam) was about 4 ½” on both sides, though.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower back armscye


The right side seam measured 11 ½”, but the left side seam was a little bit shorter – about 11 ⅜”.


TNG season 1 admiral jacket - side seam
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - side seam


The jacket measured approximately 15” wide across the lower front, and 18” wide across the lower back (measured from side seam to side seam), for a total waist measurement of about 33”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - waist
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - waist


Now we’ll take a specific look at each individual body panel.

The right side front was 3 ½” wide across the bottom, although the left side front was only 3” wide.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - side panels
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - side panels


The wedge-shaped lower front opening was about 8” wide, measured from the right side front seam to the frontmost edge of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower front


Also, the hem along the lower front opening wasn’t a straight line; it was curved upward a bit, and if you look closely, you can see that there’s actually a row of stitching visible along the hem line that didn’t quite get turned under.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower front


The front left (vertical-ish) edge of the lower front opening was 3 ¾” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower front


Also, the lower front opening didn’t extend all the way to the left side front panel; this was about 1” in front of the left side front seam (measured from the edge of the trim).

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower front


The pleats were pretty much all irregularly spaced, because of course they were. 

I documented them via their positioning along the bottom edge of the jacket, although it’s worth noting that they were all slightly farther apart at the top (up to ¼” or so) than the bottom.

Each side panel had pleat approximately centered between the seams – note approximately, never exactly! 

On the right side front, the pleat was 1 ⅝” from the side seam and 1 ⅞” from the right front seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


This pleat was about 6 ½” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


On the left side front, the pleat was 1 ⅜” from the side seam and 1 ⅝” from the left front seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


This pleat was a little bit shorter than on the right side front – about 6 ¼”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Here’s a visual reference for the pleats across the lower front opening.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


For ease of reference, I’ll refer to the four pleats as pleats #1-4, going from garment right to left (photo left to right), respectively.

Pleat #1 was 1 ⅜” from the right side front seam, and 4 ¼” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Pleat #2 was 1 ¼” away from the first, and 3 ⅞” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Pleat #3 was 1 ⅜” away from the second, and 3 ¼” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


And finally, pleat #4 was 1 ¼” from the third, and 2” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Note: pleats #3 and 4 are actually about ⅛” shorter if you measure from the hem stitching, rather than the actual fold of the fabric.


Making our way around to the back, the bottom of the side back left panel was about 2 ⅞” to 3” wide.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Its pleat was 1 ¼” (or maybe 1 ⅜”) from the side seam, 1 ⅝” from the side back seam, and 6 ¼” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


The right side back bottom was also about 3” wide.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Its pleat was not quite 1 ¼” from the side seam, about 1 ¾” from the right side back seam, and also 6 ¼” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Here’s a visual reference for the pleats across the lower back of the jacket.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Again making our way garment left to right (photo left to right this time!), I’ll be referring to the pleats as #1-6, respectively.

Pleat #1 was 1 ¾” from the left side back seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Pleat #2 was 1 ⅜” from the first.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Pleat #3 was 1 ⅝” from the second.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


In this regard, the back was overall symmetrical. 

Pleats #3 and #4 were 1 ¾” apart.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Pleat #5 was 1 ⅝” from the fourth.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


And finally, pleat #6 was 1 ⅜” from the fifth, and about 1 ¾” from the right side back seam.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


All of the back pleats were approximately 6” tall.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Here are a couple diagrams I whipped to represent this survey of measurements:

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - front measurements
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - back measurements


Both outer sleeve seams were 25”, from the top of the armscye to the upper edge of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves


Both inner sleeve seams were 19”, again measured from the armscye to the upper edge of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves


The right lower sleeve insert was 6 ¾” tall on the front (straight) edge, 7” tall along the back (diagonal) edge, and 2” wide across the bottom.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves


The left lower sleeve insert was about ¼” shorter – 6 ½” tall on the front (straight edge) and 6 ¾” tall along the back (diagonal) edge, but also 2” wide across the bottom.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeves


The trim at the bottom of the sleeve was ⅜” wide, approximately twice as wide as on the rest of the garment.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - sleeve trim



Closure System

Before we move on to the jacket’s interior construction, I'll walk you through the unfastening process. 

The jacket closed up the front via a separating zipper, underneath and just inside of the diagonal front trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper closure
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper closure


Above the zipper was a hook-and-eye closure to fasten the neck to the shoulder.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - closures


Outside the zipper were a half-dozen small black snaps, presumably to prevent the jacket from pulling open across the front and revealing the zipper.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - snaps


Also note the changing direction of the left front (zipper) seam allowance; at the bottom, it was turned under, but at the top, it opens out toward the shoulder rather remaining under toward the neckline.

There was no evidence that this seam allowance had ever been fastened down and it had simply come undone sometime in the past 30+ years.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance


I find this curious, since even if it was turned under and tacked down at the top, everything would work perfectly fine, if not better! 

Indeed, it even seems to have been cut specifically for this purpose, so nothing would poke up out of the neckline. An unsightly bulk would be hidden underneath the diagonal front panel, and the hook-and-eye closure above the zipper would still fasten.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance


Maybe someone simply forgot (or didn’t have time) to do it?


The snaps were irregularly positioned … because of course they were. 

I’ll reference them as snaps #1-6 from the top down, respectively.

Snap #1 was just above the yoke trim, and snap #2 was approximately 1 ½” beneath that.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - snaps


Snap #3 was about 1 ⅝” beneath the second.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - snaps


Snap #4 was 1 ⅜” beneath the third.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - snaps


Snap #5 was 2 ¼” beneath the fourth.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - snaps


And finally, snap #6 was 1 ⅝” beneath the fifth.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - snaps


Beneath the zipper were two more hook-and-eye closures.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - closures


The left front (zipper) seam allowance was 1”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance


The right front (zipper) seam allowance varied a bit; it appears to have also originally been 1”, but sometimes it was as much as 1 ¼”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance


Here, you can see that the trim was originally 2” wide, folded in half, and sewn onto the seam allowance. The zipper was sewn through all layers, and the hook-and-eye closures were hand-sewn to the underside of the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper seam allowance


The zipper was reinforced with an additional row of stitching, and several rows at the top (veering away whenever the sewer/costumer/seamstress felt like that was sufficient, apparently).

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper stitching
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - zipper stitching


Interior Construction

Now we’ll take a look at the inside of the admiral jacket, and its interior construction.



The centermost 6” or so of the front yoke was stabilized (?) with a piece of black lining, which was sewn into the seams and the zipper.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - neckline lining


There was also a narrow strip of black lining around the neckline, about ½” wide (plus allowances), presumably either to protect the edge of the trim from unraveling, the actor’s neck from itching, or both.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - neckline lining


The neckline lining was hand-sewn to the yoke slightly above the lower fold line.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - neckline lining


It continued around the neckline and its lower edge was simply tacked down onto the front trim by hand, around the same place where the front 1” (zipper) seam allowance began.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - neckline lining
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - neckline lining


The front yoke/upper front seam allowance was usually ⅝”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


However, it appears to have been trimmed down to ½” at the center front.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The back label appeared to be ½” white cotton twill tape, with the actor’s name written in marker.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - costume label


The back yoke/upper back seam allowance was ¾”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


Aaand here’s where things really start to get weird. 

Take a look at these right seam allowances.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


Aside from the seam allowances generally being unusual and inconsistent amounts (probably due in some degree to being taken in or let out a bit for the actor), what surprises me is how nearly all of them actually change directions from top to bottom.

Observe, for instance, that the front panel seam allowances were sewn in facing the front at the yoke, but twisted around and faced toward the side at the bottom.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


Also observe how the front (black) panel seam allowance was usually about ½”, while the front (red) panel seam allowance varied from about ⅝” to ¾”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The right front seam allowance was sewn open into the armscye, appears to have been pressed toward the front in the underarm area, but is hemmed open.

The right front seam allowances were about ¾”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


I believe they may have been intended to be sewn into the armscye toward the front, rather than open, and they were simply opened and caught in the stitching when attaching the sleeve. Whoops!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The right side seam allowances were between ¾” and ⅞” at the top, but widened to nearly 1” toward the bottom. (My guess would be that the jacket was taken in a bit after a test fitting.)

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The right back seam allowances were mismatched toward the top – about ⅝” and ⅞”, although the back reduced toward the bottom so they were both ⅝”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


(My guess is that they were both originally ⅝”, but the middle/upper back was taken in a pinch after a fitting.)

They also changed direction; they were sewn into the armscye facing toward the sides, but they were hemmed open.


The left seam allowances were also FUBAR. Just look at all those direction changes!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The front left seam allowances were sewn into the armscye facing the front, but they reversed toward the bottom and were hemmed facing the side.
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The left front seam allowances were ⅝” at the top, but ⅞” for most of the lower body.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The left side seam allowances were about 1” at the top, but they widened to 1 ⅛” for most of the rest of the seam. (Again, my guess is that it was taken in a bit after a test fitting.)

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


And alas, the left back seam allowances changed direction as well! 

They were sewn into the armscye at the top facing the side, but they were hemmed open.
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


There was also this little FUBAR, where the seam allowance had gotten caught in another stitch …
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


And yet again, the specific seam allowance changed from top to bottom.

The upper left back seam allowances were ½”, but this widened to ¾” at the bottom.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The pleats were all about ¼” wide (½” total), and stitched down numerous times with black thread (which I find curious, since the yoke was attached with red thread).

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


I find the direction of the back pleats a little confusing; one would think that they would all be pressed toward center, and that does appear to be how they were hemmed, but they also appear to have been pressed in the same direction toward the top.

Then again, it’s possible they were all pressed toward the center, and they’re simply lost their inclination to face that way after 30+ years.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - pleats


Here’s a look at the lower right front hem. 

Note that in this and the previous photo, the pleats didn’t extend all the way down to the bottom edge of the fabric, but ended a bit above it.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowance


The lower front hem allowance was about 1 ¾”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowance


The leftmost upper corner of the right front hem allowance was catch-stitched to the zipper seam allowance.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowance


The remainder of the right front hem allowance was hemmed a little beneath the edge of the fabric.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowance


The lower side and back hem allowance was 1”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowance


Now let’s take a look at the lower front area. This is a real piece of work, haha!

The whole area appears to have been stabilized with a black woven fabric that feels about like sateen in weight and sturdiness, but definitely has that synthetic feel. 

As it was literally sewn directly into the seams, my assumption is that its purpose was to stabilize the lower left front area and keep it from stretching while being worn … but that’s only a guess.

The fabric was cut with the selvage on the left, presumably to prevent fraying. (You can see some evidence of fraying along the upper edge.)

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower left interior


In the corner of the lower left front was a sort of facing piece, cut separately and sewn on.

Its purpose appears to have been to protect the raw edge of the trim.

The frontmost edge was edge-stitched. The bottom edge appears to have been machine-sewn, but it could have been slip-stitched. The side and upper edges were catch-stitched to the hem allowance and black fabric, respectively.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower left interior
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower left interior


Above that was yet another separate piece, inserted between the lower left “facing” and the zipper seam allowance. 

It appears to have been machine-sewn to the seam allowance, and it seems like a last-minute addition, as if someone saw it and said, “Oh snap, we need a bit more fabric below the zipper,” grabbed a scrap, folded it in half, and stuck it in. 

Maybe the zipper wasn’t quite as long and/or didn’t extend quite as low as expected, and the little insert was added to compensate?

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower left interior
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower left interior


In any event, the upper insert was about 2 ¼” wide and folded in half, resulting in 1⅛” – with about ½” sewn in and ⅝” extending outward from the original stitch line.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - lower left interior


There were also these little ¼” elastic “double loops” sewn into the side front seams, presumably to latch onto the trousers and help hold the jacket in place.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - elastic loops
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - elastic loops


The sleeves had some of their own weirdness going on, too.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The outer seam allowances on the right sleeve were consistently about ½”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


On the left sleeve, the outer seam allowance varied between ½” and ⅝”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


The inner sleeve seam allowances, though, were the largest that I’ve ever seen on a sleeve.

On the right sleeve, they were about 1” at the underarm, and they widened to 1 ¼” along most of the sleeve!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


On the left sleeve, the top of the inner seam allowances was about ⅞”, but those also widened to about 1 ¼”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - seam allowances


Something I was surprised to learn was that the lower sleeve inserts were simply topstitched down onto the existing back sleeve pieces.
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowances

The black sleeve “insert” continued to widen past the hem line.
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowances

The sleeve hem allowance was 2 ⅝”, including the trim.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - hem allowances


And finally, let’s take a look at these shoulder pads.

Simply put, they were massive.

I thought the shoulder pads on the TNG skant I examined were huge, but these dwarf even those.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder pads


Unlike the skant shoulder pads, these had some serious loft to them. 

Perhaps the smaller, slighter pads were standard for the ladies, but these beasties were standard for the men?

They appear to have been constructed in an identical manner: ovular, with padding enclosed in two layers of black lining, a dart establishing the rounded shape, stitched twice around the perimeter, and edges trimmed with pinking shears.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder pads


However, they were considerably larger – approximately 9 ¼” x 6 ½”.

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder pads
TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder pads


Here’s a comparison between the shoulder pads in this uniform, and largest pair of retail shoulder pads I’ve been able to find:

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder pads


And finally, one of the pads had the letters “JF” written on it, although goodness only knows that that means!

TNG season 1 admiral jacket - shoulder pads


Perhaps it’s the initials of the person who made the pad?


In Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed this detailed look at a screen-used Admiral Jameson uniform jacket! 

I’d again like to thank Angelo Cifaldi for giving me the opportunity to examine it, and to share my research with you.



Also, you can download my entire library of high-resolution costume photos as a ZIP file here

There are many more goodies coming, so subscribe to my “Costume Guide” e-mail newsletter (upper right) for updates!


1 comment:

  1. With the admiral uniform, the picture of Starfleet fashion sense (season one) is now complete! As usual, Theiss made the difficult stuff look simple.
    I had assumed the front closure had more overlap like the 'monster maroons' but I suppose that would've made the front feel uneven for the wearer. I feel there is too much gold trim overall, but the asymmetrical design is completely in-tune with the standard uniform.
    Your examination and documentation of the outfit is top-notch as always, sir!

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